Middle Quarters

Middle Quarters is a small village along the main road through St. Elizabeth, but its reputation extends across all of Jamaica. This unassuming stretch of road is the undisputed capital of peppered shrimp - a beloved Jamaican delicacy that draws travelers from across the island.

The village sits at the edge of the Black River morass, where the freshwater rivers and swamps provide the perfect habitat for the small river shrimp (crayfish) that are the star of the show. Local fishermen wade into the morass at dawn to catch the day's supply.

As you approach Middle Quarters, you'll see vendors lining both sides of the road, each with bags of bright orange-red shrimp displayed in front of their stalls. The shrimp are prepared in a secret blend of scotch bonnet peppers and spices, creating a fiery, addictive snack that's become synonymous with St. Elizabeth.

The preparation method varies slightly from vendor to vendor - each claims their recipe is the best - but all involve coating the cooked shrimp in a spicy pepper mixture that will have you reaching for a cold drink. The shrimp are sold in small bags, traditionally wrapped in newspaper, and eaten by the handful.

Stopping at Middle Quarters is a rite of passage for any visitor to St. Elizabeth. The experience of buying shrimp from a roadside vendor, chatting with locals, and eating this spicy delicacy while watching the Bamboo Avenue traffic pass by is quintessentially Jamaican.